PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS BY SUZANNE BELPERRON, PARIS, CIRCA 1970
A pair of ear clips of boteh (paisley flower) design, set in the centers with pear-shaped emeralds, framed by diamonds mounted in sliver, within hammered yellow gold settings; mounted in gold and silver, with French assay marks
- 2 pear-shaped emeralds, total weighing 14.19 carats
- 44 diamonds
- Maker’s mark for Darde Compagnie
- Measurements: 1 7/6 x 7/8 x 5/8 inches
Certification of Authenticity No.181005 Belp/Sth/Gnv from Olivier Baroin stating that the ear clips were manufactured by Darde Compagnie workshop between 1970-1974 for Suzanne Belperron.
GGTL Laboratories report no. 18-G-15972, dated July 19, 2018, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with moderate enhancement, oil.
Along with Chanel and Schiaparelli, Suzanne Belperron was one of the innovators of modern dress and jewelry. Belperron began her career in 1919 designing for René Boivin. Her 1933 partnership with Bernard Herz (and later his son Jean) allowed her to develop her bold, imaginative style mixing hardstones, such as chalcedony and rock crystal, with precious stones, such as diamonds and sapphires. The elegant beauty became a favorite jeweler to the fashionable elite including Diana Vreeland, Colette, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Wallis, Duchess of Windsor. Belperron retired in 1974 and continued consulting on jewelry designs until her death in 1983.
Devoting her life to jewelry, Suzanne Belperron created a distinctive style that transcended her era. This iconic style made her one of the most influential jewelry designers in the twentieth century. Belperron artfully crafted jewels that departed from conventional diamond-set convention and introduced volume, fluidity, femininity and a hint of movement. An avid traveller, she found inspiration in nature and exotic motifs from India, Africa, and the Far East, and she adapted many of the motifs and techniques she discovered into her designs. An article from Harper’s Bazaar in 1938 described Belperron as living surrounded by Chinese furniture and art, as well as books on ancient Assyrian jewelry. She is captured in photographs from the period wearing exotic silk kimonos and turbans.
Belperron was keen on the gold hues and textures found in her travels, and she worked closely with her workshop to recreate the colors and finishes through chisel, hammer and burnishing. For these ear clips, she was inspired by the motif of the boteh, the curved teardrop petal shape found often found in paisley patterns. The gold settings show the lightly textured yellow gold she referred to as “virgin gold.” These settings suspend richly colored Colombian emeralds within diamond frames. While the materials have been commonly used together for generations in jewelry design, Belperron added her own distinct style to the jewels and created something modern and timeless.
Never seeking publicity or patronage, Belperron still emerged as one of the greatest artists of her generation. Her jewelry was highly sought after during her life and is still today. Belperron once stated, “My style is my signature,” and her iconic designs, such as these ear clips, are easily identifiable by their bold curvaceous design and by the stamp of her workshop. Her talent has never gone unnoticed and her jewelry remains fiercely beautiful and coveted today by collectors.